{
  "version": "https://jsonfeed.org/version/1",
  "title": "Secluded Wiki (recent changes)",
  "home_page_url": "https://wiki.secluded.site",
  "description": "List of 30 recent changes on the wiki",
  "items": [
    {
      "id": "cd68ed8",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/growing_mushrooms",
      "title": "Delete ‘growing_mushrooms’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eDelete ‘growing_mushrooms’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 23 Feb 25 23:43 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing_mushrooms\"\u003egrowing_mushrooms\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/growing_mushrooms.myco b/growing_mushrooms.myco\ndeleted file mode 100644\nindex e9498e3..0000000\n--- a/growing_mushrooms.myco\n+++ /dev/null\n@@ -1,248 +0,0 @@\n-This page is for educational purposes only and is not a recommendation to break your local laws in any capacity. The text here is copied from [[https://www.leafly.com/learn/psychedelics/how-to-grow-psychedelic-mushrooms-first-time | a Leafly article]] and lightly edited in some places for clarity.\r\n-\r\n-img {\r\n-   ./Forest Floor\r\n-}\r\n-\r\n-== Table of Contents\r\n-* [[./#Note_on_sterilisation | Note on sterilisation]]\r\n-* [[./#How_long_does_it_take? | How long does it take?]]\r\n-* [[./#Supplies | Supplies]]\r\n-* [[./#Preparation | Preparation]]\r\n-* [[./#Inoculation | Inoculation]]\r\n-* [[./#Colonisation | Colonisation]]\r\n-* [[./#Substrate_assembly | Substrate assembly]]\r\n-* [[./#Birthing | Birthing]]\r\n-* [[./#Fruiting | Fruiting]]\r\n-* [[./#Harvesting | Harvesting]]\r\n-\r\n-----\r\n-\r\n-The core steps to a successful harvest include\r\n-\r\n-* **Sterilisation**: A food source (rice, grain, manure, sawdust, popcorn kernels, bird seed, etc.) is first hydrated, loaded into Mason jars or [[https://unicornbags.com/ | Unicorn Bags]], and sterilized. Think of this as clearing a field before planting an orchard. Once competing organisms are gone, mushrooms can take hold easily.\r\n-* **Inoculation**: The sterilized mushroom food is inoculated with spores or a living mushroom sample. These clones produce uniform mushrooms, or fruit, and multi-spore cultures can create countless variations.\r\n-* **Germination \u0026amp; colonisation**: The inoculation is given time to mature and colonise the food source, becoming a white and fluffy mycelial network—like roots, but for mushrooms—and eventually, mushrooms.\r\n-* **Fruit block assembly**: After colonisation, a grower breaks up the inoculated food and mixes it into a substrate, or growing medium—commonly coir, vermiculite, or sphagnum. The substrate provides the structure and water that mushrooms need to mature. Once thoroughly combined, the mixture is sealed inside a plastic bin.\r\n-* **Fruit block colonisation**: Inside a sealed bin, mycelium spread into the substrate. The goal is to establish a fruit block, in which the mycelium joins the food and substrate.\r\n-* **Pinning**: Once the block is fully colonised, primordia—aka “pins”—begin to form, indicating that it\u0026#39;s time to introduce fruiting conditions. These pins will eventually swell and rise from the fruit block as mushrooms.\r\n-* **Fruiting**: During fruiting, young mushrooms want high humidity levels and plenty of oxygen, circumstances referred to as “fruiting conditions.” As mushrooms grow, they consume oxygen and release carbon dioxide. Without the exchange of fresh air for CO2, mushrooms become susceptible to growth defects, dudding, and pathogens. If humidity levels drop too low, a substrate will eventually dry out and starve mushrooms of water.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Note on sterilisation\r\n-\r\n-One of the biggest difficulties for new growers is contamination. Microorganisms like bacteria, yeast, and fungi can out-compete an inoculant and ruin a growing project.\r\n-\r\n-Signs of contamination include:\r\n-\r\n-* Sour or weird odours\r\n-* Presence of a yellow liquid used as a defence mechanism\r\n-* Brown, sludgy deposits of rotting rice\r\n-* Stalled colonisation or the formation of colour masses, most often green, red, pink, or competing shades of white\r\n-\r\n-Contamination usually occurs from inadequate sterilisation techniques, dirty inoculants/spore solutions, unsanitary cultivation environments, or even a grower\u0026#39;s body or clothing. Each time a project is handled or exposed to open air, a mushroom grower risks contamination.\r\n-\r\n-In a home-grown environment that lacks laboratory-standard sterilisation and clean-room equipment, our best defence against contamination is to interact with a project as little as possible.\r\n-\r\n-== How long does it take?\r\n-\r\n-The prep and inoculation phases can be knocked out in an afternoon. After\r\n-inoculation, colonisation can take anywhere from two to eight weeks, depending\r\n-on environmental conditions, genetics, and inoculation technique. Once the cups\r\n-are colonised and birthed, pins and fruits will form in about one to four\r\n-weeks.\r\n-\r\n-A full growth cycle of mushrooms can take anywhere from one to three months.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Supplies\r\n-\r\n-You\u0026#39;ll need the following supplies for the **inoculation phase**:\r\n-\r\n-* Spore syringe or liquid culture\r\n-* Minute Rice Brown Rice Cups\r\n-* Micropore tape\r\n-* x2+ 6-quart plastic totes, or similar plastic boxes\r\n-* Nitrile gloves\r\n-* Rubbing alcohol\r\n-* Bleach\r\n-* Spray bottles for alcohol and bleach\r\n-* Fine-mist bottle for water\r\n-* Lysol or other air disinfectant\r\n-* N95 mask\r\n-* Butane/propane torch, alcohol lamp, or similar\r\n-\r\n-Supply list for the **substrate phase**:\r\n-\r\n-* Coir\r\n-* Vermiculite (optional)\r\n-* Gypsum (optional)\r\n-* Distilled water\r\n-* 5-gallon painter\u0026#39;s bucket and lid\r\n-* Nitrile gloves\r\n-* N95 mask\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Preparation\r\n-\r\n-This and the next step can be finished in an afternoon.\r\n-\r\n-When picking a work area, avoid drafty rooms if at all possible. We want to get as close as we can to a sterile, laboratory-grade clean room. If there are vents, we\u0026#39;re going to seal them up. Also avoid carpeted rooms because carpet traps contaminants.\r\n-\r\n-After selecting a work area, sanitise it as deeply as possible. Ensure there\u0026#39;s ample ventilation, then begin wiping every surface (walls, floors, doors) down with rubbing alcohol. Work top to bottom, and consider using bleach on surfaces that it wouldn\u0026#39;t damage.\r\n-\r\n-After sterilising every surface, gather the spore syringe, rice cups, torch, micropore tape, and nitrile gloves. Wipe everything down with rubbing alcohol and place on a sterile surface.\r\n-\r\n-Begin sealing the room. Turn off any air conditioning systems, close or seal vents with plastic sheeting and tape, etc.\r\n-\r\n-Spray the air with Lysol or a similar aerosol disinfectant designed to mitigate airborne contaminants.\r\n-\r\n-Now clean your body. Take a shower, brush your teeth, and put on clean clothes. Right before heading back into your work area, wash your hands thoroughly with soap.\r\n-\r\n-When ready to proceed, put on an N95 mask and enter the room.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Inoculation\r\n-\r\n-Vigorously shake your spore syringe for a few minutes, making sure to break up any clumps of spores. Spores need to be evenly distributed through the solution.\r\n-\r\n-Flame-sterilize the syringe needle with your torch or lighter. The needle should get red-hot.\r\n-\r\n-**Note:** don\u0026#39;t break the factory seal on the rice cup; that stays sealed until later.\r\n-\r\n-img side {\r\n-    ./Inoculation\r\n-}\r\n-\r\n-When the needle has cooled, puncture the plastic covering on a rice cup in the middle and dispense between 0.5-1cc of spore solution. Don\u0026#39;t use too much solution, as excessive moisture levels will encourage wet rot and bacterial infection.\r\n-\r\n-Immediately cover the inoculation hole with a piece of micropore tape. Make 6 holes on one side, cover them with tape, 6 holes on the other side, then cover them with tape. The goal here is working as quickly and efficiently as possible to minimise the amount of time the contents of the cup are exposed to the air.\r\n-\r\n-The spores now have a source of food and will germinate.\r\n-\r\n-Repeat this process for each cup, sterilising the needle between inoculations.\r\n-\r\n-To minimise the risk of contamination, try to avoid moving your hands around a lot and keep your work surface wet with rubbing alcohol throughout the process.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Colonisation\r\n-\r\n-After inoculation, store the rice cups inside a 6-quart plastic box or similar plastic container and close the lid. Spores will begin to germinate, pair up, and exchange genetic information, maturing into a mycelial network.\r\n-\r\n-To encourage a timely rate of colonisation, store the cups at around 65° F (~18.5° C). Warmer temperatures will encourage quicker colonisation, but anything past 70-75° F (21-23.5° C) can awaken dormant contaminants. Keeping the environment cool will elongate colonisation, but stave off competing microorganisms.\r\n-\r\n-Once a week, gently agitate your rice cups in a back-and-forth or swirling motion, but don\u0026#39;t shake the cup up and down. Doing so can expose grains of rice to the inoculation area, where contaminants are most likely to be hiding.\r\n-\r\n-You can monitor the colonisation process by holding a cup up to a lamp; the dense mycelium restricts light from passing through, thereby appearing whiter than the uncolonised top portion of the rice.\r\n-\r\n-Colonisation usually takes two to eight weeks. When the rice is fully colonised, it will solidify into a unified mass, eventually feeling heavy at the bottom of the cup. Colonisation can be confirmed by shaking the cup. Once few or no loose grains are felt rattling around, move on to the substrate assembly and birthing phases of mushroom growing.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Substrate assembly\r\n-\r\n-When a rice cup is fully colonised, between a couple of weeks and a couple of months, you can move on to making a substrate (the growth medium) and birthing mushrooms.\r\n-\r\n-img side {\r\n-    ./Substrate\r\n-}\r\n-\r\n-Most people use a combo of coir, vermiculite, and gypsum (this combo is also called CVG). “Field capacity” refers to the ideal amount of water in a substrate. A substrate that\u0026#39;s adequately hydrated to field capacity will establish Goldilocks-zone, aerobic soil conditions, and encourage healthy mushrooms. Field capacity is when just a few drops of water are produced when squeezing a handful of substrate. There\u0026#39;s a good explainer video [[https://youtu.be/wzMRjEDMdfs | on YouTube]]; the instructions are reproduced here in case the video is ever taken down.\r\n-\r\n-Make your substrate 8–24 hours ahead of time and use it within 24 hours; the longer the substrate sits around, the more likely it is to become contaminated.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-=== Ingredients\r\n-\r\n-* 1 bucket, 6 gallons\r\n-* 1 brick of coir, 650g\r\n-* 8 cups vermiculite\r\n-* 1 cup gypsum\r\n-* 18 cups water\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-=== Steps\r\n-\r\n-* Put dry ingredients in bucket\r\n-* Boil water\r\n-* Pout water in bucket\r\n-* Close lid, clamping down\r\n-* Let sit at //least// 6-8 hrs to cool\r\n-* Come back and mix everything up\r\n-* Use within 24 hrs\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Birthing\r\n-\r\n-Birthing only takes an hour or so, depending on how many rice cups you have. Before birthing, sterilise your work area again. Remember, your work area is like a surgical theatre and you’re the doctor. Cleanliness and hygiene are a home mycologist’s best allies.\r\n-\r\n-When you’re all cleaned up and wearing a mask and gloves, it’s time to birth your cups.\r\n-\r\n-First, sanitise a spoon with rubbing alcohol, then open a rice cup by breaking the seal and break up the consolidated rice. Add a small handful of substrate to the cup and mix it in with the inoculated rice.\r\n-\r\n-Once the rice is evenly distributed throughout the substrate, gently compress the mix and add another layer of substrate. This layer will serve as a barrier between open-air contaminants and the rice mixture.\r\n-\r\n-Now cups can be introduced to fruiting conditions.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Fruiting\r\n-\r\n-Mushrooms need a humid environment and fresh air. To create such an environment, we use a well-sanitised 6-quart plastic box. After disinfecting the plastic box with rubbing alcohol, spray the inside with a fine-mist water bottle to increase humidity.\r\n-\r\n-Put the cups inside the plastic box with the lid turned upside down—this leaves a small gap for air exchange, allowing fresh oxygen to displace the CO2 that mushrooms make while growing.\r\n-\r\n-The easiest option for lighting is the diffused light from a window through the blinds. You can also use fluorescent lights and LEDs that mimic the spectrum of the sun. If you grow weed and have a T5 or T8 fluorescent tube hanging around, use that. The light simply needs to warm the box.\r\n-\r\n-Keep the temperature the same as it was during the colonisation phase. Temperature regulation is critical because fluctuations create condensation and humidity.\r\n-\r\n-You won’t need to water the cups directly, only mist the inside of the box before adding them. This jumpstarts the formation of fruits via evaporation and rehydration of the substrate during day and night cycles.\r\n-\r\n-Once you introduce your cups to fruiting conditions, high humidity, ample fresh air, and a day-night light cycle, simply leave your project alone. Resist touching it. No daily misting, fanning, etc. is needed. Patience is key.\r\n-\r\n-If the condensation on the inside of the bin evaporates entirely before fruits form, remove the cups and mist the walls and/or floor of the box again. Never mist the cups, fruits, or pins directly. Too much water will drown the mycelium and encourage pathogens to take root.\r\n-\r\n-The plastic bin will first start to dry out where fresh air enters. If a dry zone doesn’t form after a few days, reposition the upturned lid to widen the gap to increase fresh air exchange.\r\n-\r\n-Note: Some people close the lid and fan their fruiting chamber with the lid every so often. We don’t recommend this approach as it can mess with humidity levels. We suggest a passive fresh air exchange. As a rule of thumb, less interaction is more.\r\n-\r\n-The fruiting phase can be broken down into three stages: pinning, elongation, and sporulation.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-=== Pinning\r\n-\r\n-Mushrooms start as knots of //hypha//-like individual roots, but part of the mycelium: on the surface of a mycelial network. They grow where water droplets condense and evaporate.\r\n-\r\n-Imperceptible to the untrained eye, these knots are the beginnings of //primordia//: better known as “pins” due to their pinhead-like appearance. Their formation is usually referred to as “pinning.”\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-=== Elongation\r\n-\r\n-As fruits mature, they will elongate and gain mass. This is when adequate fresh air exchange becomes critical. If fruit bodies bruise to blue, this indicates a CO,,2,, build-up and growth will soon halt if the rate of fresh air exchange isn’t increased.\r\n-\r\n-Fruits are ready to harvest when the caps open up, signalling that sporulation will soon begin.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-=== Sporulation\r\n-\r\n-img side {\r\n-   ./Growing In Cup\r\n-}\r\n-\r\n-At this point, the veil connecting the cap to the stem breaks and within a few days, spores will be visible on the substrate below. This is the mushroom’s way of repeating the lifecycle.\r\n-\r\n-It’s common to harvest shortly before or after the veil breaks to avoid dark, inky spore deposits falling onto and colouring any underlying mushrooms.\r\n-\r\n-== Harvest\r\n-\r\n-When the veil connecting a mushroom’s cap to its stem breaks, it’s ready to harvest. To harvest, simply twist and pull each mushroom from the substrate. Alternatively, you can use a knife or scalpel to cut them free.\r\n-\r\n-Once harvested, remove and discard any substrate that’s attached to the bottom of your mushrooms.\r\n-\r\n-img side {\r\n-    ./Plate\r\n-}\r\n-\r\n-They should be eaten immediately after harvest or dried.\r\n-\r\n-Air drying is sufficient, but they can also be put in a food dehydrator on a low-temp setting (120° F or less) for about a day. Mushrooms are composed of up to 90% water, so growers need to be thorough when drying them.\r\n-\r\n-Once cracker-dry, mushrooms should be stored in a jar or similar container with a desiccant pack or two to maintain proper humidity levels. Ideally, store mushrooms in a dark space that stays at room temperature, not in a freezer or fridge.\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2025-02-23T23:43:01Z",
      "date_modified": "2025-02-23T23:43:01Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "5f1a6a1",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 20:32 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex 319a643..d877e8b 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -36,3 +36,3 @@ The second way is to season it directly, and this should really only be necessar\n \r\n-Different oils have different flavour profiles. They also smoke at different temperatures. Note that all cooking oils and fats can be used to season cast iron. Available, affordability, effectiveness, and smoke point were all evaluated when creating the chart above.\r\n+Different oils have different flavour profiles. They also smoke at different temperatures. Note that all cooking oils and fats can be used to season cast iron. Available, affordability, effectiveness, and smoke point were all evaluated when creating the chart below.\r\n \r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T20:32:29Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T20:32:29Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "7a9dff7",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 20:31 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex 9dd0c3b..319a643 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -20,8 +20,8 @@ Cast iron seasoning is a layer of oil baked onto cast iron and carbonised throug\n \r\n-The easiest way to keep cast iron seasoned is simply to cook with it; every time you cook with oil, you\u0026#39;re potentially adding another layer. I also like to explicitly add another layer after I finish [[./#Clean]]ing it.\r\n+The easiest way to keep cast iron seasoned is simply to cook with it; every time you cook with oil, you\u0026#39;re potentially adding another layer. Explicitly adding another //light// layer of [[./#Oil]] after [[./#Clean]]ing may also be a good idea if the cookware is new.\r\n \r\n-The second way is to season it directly, and this should really only be necessary when you\u0026#39;ve done something to //remove// existing seasoning. That can happen when you cook acidic foods, use excessive heat, scrub with abrasive utensils or scouring pads, or [[./#Clean]] it with soap rather than just warm water and a scraper.\r\n+The second way is to season it directly, and this should really only be necessary when you\u0026#39;ve done something to //remove// existing seasoning. That can happen when you cook acidic foods, use excessive heat, scrub with abrasive utensils or scouring pads, or [[./#Clean]] it with particularly strong lye-based dish soap rather than regular dish soap.\r\n \r\n * Drip one or two drops of [[./#Oil]] inside the cookware and spread it around, both inside and outside, with a paper towel\r\n-** When finished spreading, the cookware should have a slight sheen, but not look wet. If it looks wet, you used too much oil.\r\n+** When finished spreading, the cookware should have a slight sheen, but not look wet. If it looks wet, you used too much oil. As long as the oil doesn\u0026#39;t run and collect when you angle the pan, don\u0026#39;t bother trying to get the excess off because it won\u0026#39;t hurt anything.\r\n * Pre-heat the oven to 500° F (260° C)\r\n@@ -30,5 +30,5 @@ The second way is to season it directly, and this should really only be necessar\n * Bake for one hour\r\n-* Open door and let cool for at least one hour\r\n+* Open door and let cookware cool for a while before handling it\r\n * Wipe cookware down with paper towel\r\n-** The paper towel may or may not come away slightly or really black. This is normal; coming away mostly clean (aside from the oil) means it\u0026#39;s has been well-used and cared-for. If it comes away mostly black, it just means it\u0026#39;s probably a fairly new piece of cookware.\r\n+** The paper towel may or may not come away slightly or really black. This is normal; coming away mostly clean (aside from the oil) is a sign that the cookware\u0026#39;s been well-used and cared-for. If it comes away mostly black, it\u0026#39;s just a sign it might have been bought recently.\r\n \r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T20:31:40Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T20:31:40Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "9f9dbac",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by xx_masterchef_xx",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by xx_masterchef_xx at 17 Jan 24 20:23 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex dc78b53..9dd0c3b 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -12,5 +12,5 @@ Cast iron maintenance just consists of keeping it [[./#Clean]] and [[./#Season]]\n \r\n-After cooking, serving, and eating, rinse the cookware with warm water, scrape any food off, immediately pat dry, and apply oil the same way you would when [[./#Season]]ing it. You don\u0026#39;t need to bake it if this is just a routine clean.\r\n+After cooking, serving, and eating, scrape any food off and hand-wash the cookware as you would any other pan. Wipe it dry immediately after washing (do not let it air dry, do not wash in the dishwasher) and, if you want, apply oil the same way you would when [[./#Season]]ing it. This last step is a good idea especially if you only rarely cook using your cast iron cookware, but once you have a good layer of seasoning built up it becomes less necessary.\r\n \r\n-If there\u0026#39;s stuck-on food that absolutely won\u0026#39;t come off with a scraper, try using soap and water. Any time you use soap to clean cast iron, ++immediately++ go through the whole [[./#Season]]ing process. You should usually //not// have to use soap, but if you do, seasoning is paramount because it keeps your cast iron from rusting.\r\n+**NOTE:** Do not use lye-based soaps on cast iron cookware. This will strip the seasoning and will require you to re-season your cookware. You might see advice to never use dish soap on your cast iron cookware but this advice comes from a time when dish soap was made with lye and was therefore much more highly concentrated than the dish soaps we have today. Most modern dish soaps should not include lye unless they are particularly strong, and they should be safe to use on cast iron cookware.\r\n \r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T20:23:28Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T20:23:28Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "xx_masterchef_xx"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "5ee0d5c",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 20:08 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex 27d6f3a..dc78b53 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -2,2 +2,6 @@ A piece of properly-[[./#Maintain]]ed cast iron cookware will last generations.\n \r\n+img {\r\n+    ./Skillet\r\n+}\r\n+\r\n = Maintain\r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T20:08:23Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T20:08:23Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "61080c6",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron/skillet",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron/skillet’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron/skillet’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 20:07 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron/skillet\"\u003ecast_iron/skillet\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron/skillet.myco b/cast_iron/skillet.myco\nnew file mode 100644\nindex 0000000..d66f54e\n--- /dev/null\n+++ b/cast_iron/skillet.myco\n@@ -0,0 +1 @@\n+AI-generated image of a skillet on a stove\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T20:07:53Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T20:07:53Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "ec825a7",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron/skillet",
      "title": "Upload media for ‘cast_iron/skillet’ with type ‘image/webp’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eUpload media for ‘cast_iron/skillet’ with type ‘image/webp’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 20:07 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron/skillet\"\u003ecast_iron/skillet\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003eNo text changes\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T20:07:36Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T20:07:36Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "b98f01b",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/growing_mushrooms",
      "title": "Edit ‘growing_mushrooms’: correct path to image by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘growing_mushrooms’: correct path to image\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 20:04 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing_mushrooms\"\u003egrowing_mushrooms\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/growing_mushrooms.myco b/growing_mushrooms.myco\nindex 0c2d4b1..e9498e3 100644\n--- a/growing_mushrooms.myco\n+++ b/growing_mushrooms.myco\n@@ -3,3 +3,3 @@ This page is for educational purposes only and is not a recommendation to break\n img {\r\n-   Growing/Mushrooms/Forest Floor\r\n+   ./Forest Floor\r\n }\r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T20:04:19Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T20:04:19Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "3abd948",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/oil_chart",
      "title": "Edit ‘oil_chart’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘oil_chart’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 19:33 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/oil_chart\"\u003eoil_chart\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/oil_chart.myco b/oil_chart.myco\nindex 4619bd7..1260dc4 100644\n--- a/oil_chart.myco\n+++ b/oil_chart.myco\n@@ -2,18 +2,18 @@ table { Chart of various oils showing their smoke point and uses\n ! Type ! Smoke temp ! Sautéing ! Searing ! Roasting ! Frying ! Baking ! Finishing ! Dressing ! Seasoning ! Neutral flavour\r\n-| Avocado              | 520° F | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |\r\n-| Safflower            | 500° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n-| Light olive          | 465° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   | ✓ |   | ✓ |\r\n-| Rice bran            | 450° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n-| Soybean              | 450° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n-| Peanut               | 450° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n-| Corn                 | 450° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n-| Sesame               | 450° F | ✓ |   |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |\r\n-| Sunflower            | 440° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n-| Canola               | 425° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n-| Grapeseed            | 420° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n-| Vegetable            | 400° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n-| Extra virgin olive   | 375° F | ✓ |   | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |\r\n-| Vegetable shortening | 360° F |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n-| Coconut              | 350° F | ✓ |   | ✓ |   | ✓ |   |   | ✓ |   |\r\n-| Flaxseed             | 225° F |   |   |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |\r\n+| Avocado              | 520° F / 271° C | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |\r\n+| Safflower            | 500° F / 260° C | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Light olive          | 465° F / 240° C | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   | ✓ |   | ✓ |\r\n+| Rice bran            | 450° F / 232° C | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Soybean              | 450° F / 232° C | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Peanut               | 450° F / 232° C | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Corn                 | 450° F / 232° C | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Sesame               | 450° F / 232° C | ✓ |   |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |\r\n+| Sunflower            | 440° F / 226° C | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Canola               | 425° F / 218° C | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Grapeseed            | 420° F / 215° C | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Vegetable            | 400° F / 204° C | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Extra virgin olive   | 375° F / 190° C | ✓ |   | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |\r\n+| Vegetable shortening | 360° F / 182° C |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Coconut              | 350° F / 176° C | ✓ |   | ✓ |   | ✓ |   |   | ✓ |   |\r\n+| Flaxseed             | 225° F / 107° C |   |   |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |\r\n }\r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T19:33:19Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T19:33:19Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "63b7d04",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 19:28 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex 47bc7c7..27d6f3a 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -1,2 +1,2 @@\n-A piece of properly-[[./#maintain]]ed cast iron cookware will last generations.\r\n+A piece of properly-[[./#Maintain]]ed cast iron cookware will last generations.\r\n \r\n@@ -4,3 +4,3 @@ A piece of properly-[[./#maintain]]ed cast iron cookware will last generations.\n \r\n-Cast iron maintenance just consists of keeping it [[./#Clean]] and [[./#season]]ed. \r\n+Cast iron maintenance just consists of keeping it [[./#Clean]] and [[./#Season]]ed. \r\n \r\n@@ -8,5 +8,5 @@ Cast iron maintenance just consists of keeping it [[./#Clean]] and [[./#season]]\n \r\n-After cooking, serving, and eating, rinse the cookware with warm water, scrape any food off, immediately pat dry, and apply oil the same way you would when [[./#season]]ing it. You don\u0026#39;t need to bake it if this is just a routine clean.\r\n+After cooking, serving, and eating, rinse the cookware with warm water, scrape any food off, immediately pat dry, and apply oil the same way you would when [[./#Season]]ing it. You don\u0026#39;t need to bake it if this is just a routine clean.\r\n \r\n-If there\u0026#39;s stuck-on food that absolutely won\u0026#39;t come off with a scraper, try using soap and water. Any time you use soap to clean cast iron, ++immediately++ go through the whole [[./#season]]ing process. You should usually //not// have to use soap, but if you do, seasoning is paramount because it keeps your cast iron from rusting.\r\n+If there\u0026#39;s stuck-on food that absolutely won\u0026#39;t come off with a scraper, try using soap and water. Any time you use soap to clean cast iron, ++immediately++ go through the whole [[./#Season]]ing process. You should usually //not// have to use soap, but if you do, seasoning is paramount because it keeps your cast iron from rusting.\r\n \r\n@@ -16,7 +16,7 @@ Cast iron seasoning is a layer of oil baked onto cast iron and carbonised throug\n \r\n-The easiest way to keep cast iron seasoned is simply to cook with it; every time you cook with oil, you\u0026#39;re potentially adding another layer. I also like to explicitly add another layer after I finish [[./#clean]]ing it.\r\n+The easiest way to keep cast iron seasoned is simply to cook with it; every time you cook with oil, you\u0026#39;re potentially adding another layer. I also like to explicitly add another layer after I finish [[./#Clean]]ing it.\r\n \r\n-The second way is to season it directly, and this should really only be necessary when you\u0026#39;ve done something to //remove// existing seasoning. That can happen when you cook acidic foods, use excessive heat, scrub with abrasive utensils or scouring pads, or [[./#clean]] it with soap rather than just warm water and a scraper.\r\n+The second way is to season it directly, and this should really only be necessary when you\u0026#39;ve done something to //remove// existing seasoning. That can happen when you cook acidic foods, use excessive heat, scrub with abrasive utensils or scouring pads, or [[./#Clean]] it with soap rather than just warm water and a scraper.\r\n \r\n-* Drip one or two drops of [[./#oil]] inside the cookware and spread it around, both inside and outside, with a paper towel\r\n+* Drip one or two drops of [[./#Oil]] inside the cookware and spread it around, both inside and outside, with a paper towel\r\n ** When finished spreading, the cookware should have a slight sheen, but not look wet. If it looks wet, you used too much oil.\r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T19:28:02Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T19:28:02Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "b172a37",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 19:27 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex 3f124ab..47bc7c7 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -4,3 +4,3 @@ A piece of properly-[[./#maintain]]ed cast iron cookware will last generations.\n \r\n-Cast iron maintenance just consists of keeping it [[./#clean]] and [[./#season]]ed. \r\n+Cast iron maintenance just consists of keeping it [[./#Clean]] and [[./#season]]ed. \r\n \r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T19:27:29Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T19:27:29Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "049330a",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 19:27 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex ac84bdf..3f124ab 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -4,3 +4,3 @@ A piece of properly-[[./#maintain]]ed cast iron cookware will last generations.\n \r\n-Cast iron maintenance consists of keeping it [[./#clean]] and [[./#season]]ed. \r\n+Cast iron maintenance just consists of keeping it [[./#clean]] and [[./#season]]ed. \r\n \r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T19:27:06Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T19:27:06Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "4857fe6",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 19:26 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex e2a589a..ac84bdf 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -4,5 +4,3 @@ A piece of properly-[[./#maintain]]ed cast iron cookware will last generations.\n \r\n-Cast iron maintenance consists of keeping it [[./#clean]] and [[./#season]]ed. The easiest way to keep it [[./#season]]ed is simply to cook with it; every time you cook with oil, you\u0026#39;re potentially adding another layer of that carbonised oil.\r\n-\r\n-The second way is to [[./#season]] it directly, and this should really only be necessary when you\u0026#39;ve done something to //remove// existing seasoning. That can happen when you cook acidic foods, use excessive heat, scrub with abrasive utensils or scouring pads, or [[./#clean]] it with soap rather than just warm water and a scraper.\r\n+Cast iron maintenance consists of keeping it [[./#clean]] and [[./#season]]ed. \r\n \r\n@@ -18,2 +16,6 @@ Cast iron seasoning is a layer of oil baked onto cast iron and carbonised throug\n \r\n+The easiest way to keep cast iron seasoned is simply to cook with it; every time you cook with oil, you\u0026#39;re potentially adding another layer. I also like to explicitly add another layer after I finish [[./#clean]]ing it.\r\n+\r\n+The second way is to season it directly, and this should really only be necessary when you\u0026#39;ve done something to //remove// existing seasoning. That can happen when you cook acidic foods, use excessive heat, scrub with abrasive utensils or scouring pads, or [[./#clean]] it with soap rather than just warm water and a scraper.\r\n+\r\n * Drip one or two drops of [[./#oil]] inside the cookware and spread it around, both inside and outside, with a paper towel\r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T19:26:52Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T19:26:52Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "1636381",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 19:24 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex 77f7756..e2a589a 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -4,3 +4,3 @@ A piece of properly-[[./#maintain]]ed cast iron cookware will last generations.\n \r\n-Cast iron maintenance consists of keeping it [[./#clean]] and [[./#season]]ed. The easiest way to keep it seasoned is simply to cook with it; every time you cook with oil, you\u0026#39;re potentially adding another layer of that carbonised oil.\r\n+Cast iron maintenance consists of keeping it [[./#clean]] and [[./#season]]ed. The easiest way to keep it [[./#season]]ed is simply to cook with it; every time you cook with oil, you\u0026#39;re potentially adding another layer of that carbonised oil.\r\n \r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T19:24:39Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T19:24:39Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "9abdffe",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 19:24 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex 232adfe..77f7756 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -4,3 +4,3 @@ A piece of properly-[[./#maintain]]ed cast iron cookware will last generations.\n \r\n-Cast iron maintenance consists of keeping it [[./#clean]] and seasoned. The easiest way to keep it seasoned is simply to cook with it; every time you cook with oil, you\u0026#39;re potentially adding another layer of that carbonised oil.\r\n+Cast iron maintenance consists of keeping it [[./#clean]] and [[./#season]]ed. The easiest way to keep it seasoned is simply to cook with it; every time you cook with oil, you\u0026#39;re potentially adding another layer of that carbonised oil.\r\n \r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T19:24:25Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T19:24:25Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "c7bd958",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 19:24 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex afc93ef..232adfe 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -2,6 +2,2 @@ A piece of properly-[[./#maintain]]ed cast iron cookware will last generations.\n \r\n-= Seasoning\r\n-\r\n-Cast iron seasoning is a layer of oil baked onto cast iron and carbonised through polymerisation. That carbonised oil is what gives your cast iron that black patina. Seasoning forms a natural, easy-release cooking surface and helps prevent your cookware from rusting.\r\n-\r\n = Maintain\r\n@@ -14,3 +10,5 @@ The second way is to [[./#season]] it directly, and this should really only be n\n \r\n-After cooking, serving, and eating, rinse the cookware with warm water and scrape any food off. If there\u0026#39;s stuck-on food that absolutely won\u0026#39;t come off, try using soap and water. Any time you use soap to clean cast iron, ++immediately++ [[./#season]] it again. You should usually //not// have to use soap.\r\n+After cooking, serving, and eating, rinse the cookware with warm water, scrape any food off, immediately pat dry, and apply oil the same way you would when [[./#season]]ing it. You don\u0026#39;t need to bake it if this is just a routine clean.\r\n+\r\n+If there\u0026#39;s stuck-on food that absolutely won\u0026#39;t come off with a scraper, try using soap and water. Any time you use soap to clean cast iron, ++immediately++ go through the whole [[./#season]]ing process. You should usually //not// have to use soap, but if you do, seasoning is paramount because it keeps your cast iron from rusting.\r\n \r\n@@ -18,2 +16,4 @@ After cooking, serving, and eating, rinse the cookware with warm water and scrap\n \r\n+Cast iron seasoning is a layer of oil baked onto cast iron and carbonised through polymerisation. That carbonised oil is what gives your cast iron that black patina. Seasoning forms a natural, easy-release cooking surface and helps prevent your cookware from rusting.\r\n+\r\n * Drip one or two drops of [[./#oil]] inside the cookware and spread it around, both inside and outside, with a paper towel\r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T19:24:06Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T19:24:06Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "8cb28b4",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 19:20 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex 104f9a7..afc93ef 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -30,2 +30,4 @@ After cooking, serving, and eating, rinse the cookware with warm water and scrap\n \r\n+Different oils have different flavour profiles. They also smoke at different temperatures. Note that all cooking oils and fats can be used to season cast iron. Available, affordability, effectiveness, and smoke point were all evaluated when creating the chart above.\r\n+\r\n \u0026lt;= oil chart\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T19:20:52Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T19:20:52Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "0f435b5",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/oil_chart",
      "title": "Edit ‘oil_chart’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘oil_chart’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 19:19 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/oil_chart\"\u003eoil_chart\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/oil_chart.myco b/oil_chart.myco\nindex 720cf3f..4619bd7 100644\n--- a/oil_chart.myco\n+++ b/oil_chart.myco\n@@ -18,2 +18,4 @@ table { Chart of various oils showing their smoke point and uses\n | Flaxseed             | 225° F |   |   |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |\r\n-}\n\\ No newline at end of file\n+}\r\n+\r\n+The values in this table represent the typical smoke point for commercially available edible oils. Smoke points may vary within a source oil due to such factors as processing techniques and/or seasonable variations.\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T19:19:17Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T19:19:17Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "a75707a",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/oil_chart",
      "title": "Edit ‘oil_chart’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘oil_chart’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 19:17 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/oil_chart\"\u003eoil_chart\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/oil_chart.myco b/oil_chart.myco\nnew file mode 100644\nindex 0000000..720cf3f\n--- /dev/null\n+++ b/oil_chart.myco\n@@ -0,0 +1,19 @@\n+table { Chart of various oils showing their smoke point and uses\r\n+! Type ! Smoke temp ! Sautéing ! Searing ! Roasting ! Frying ! Baking ! Finishing ! Dressing ! Seasoning ! Neutral flavour\r\n+| Avocado              | 520° F | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |\r\n+| Safflower            | 500° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Light olive          | 465° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   | ✓ |   | ✓ |\r\n+| Rice bran            | 450° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Soybean              | 450° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Peanut               | 450° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Corn                 | 450° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Sesame               | 450° F | ✓ |   |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |\r\n+| Sunflower            | 440° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Canola               | 425° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Grapeseed            | 420° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Vegetable            | 400° F | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Extra virgin olive   | 375° F | ✓ |   | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |   |\r\n+| Vegetable shortening | 360° F |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |\r\n+| Coconut              | 350° F | ✓ |   | ✓ |   | ✓ |   |   | ✓ |   |\r\n+| Flaxseed             | 225° F |   |   |   |   |   | ✓ | ✓ |   |   |\r\n+}\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T19:17:08Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T19:17:08Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "ec73c2e",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 18:40 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex c5a6f26..104f9a7 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -28,2 +28,4 @@ After cooking, serving, and eating, rinse the cookware with warm water and scrap\n \r\n-= Oil\n\\ No newline at end of file\n+= Oil\r\n+\r\n+\u0026lt;= oil chart\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T18:40:41Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T18:40:41Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "b667040",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/oil_chart",
      "title": "Upload media for ‘oil_chart’ with type ‘image/webp’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eUpload media for ‘oil_chart’ with type ‘image/webp’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 18:40 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/oil_chart\"\u003eoil_chart\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003eNo text changes\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T18:40:17Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T18:40:17Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "146f710",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Edit ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 18:40 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nindex e883623..c5a6f26 100644\n--- a/cast_iron.myco\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -18,3 +18,3 @@ After cooking, serving, and eating, rinse the cookware with warm water and scrap\n \r\n-* Drip one or two drops of [[./#seasoning oil]] inside the cookware and spread it around, both inside and outside, with a paper towel\r\n+* Drip one or two drops of [[./#oil]] inside the cookware and spread it around, both inside and outside, with a paper towel\r\n ** When finished spreading, the cookware should have a slight sheen, but not look wet. If it looks wet, you used too much oil.\r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T18:40:02Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T18:40:02Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "75602ed",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cast_iron",
      "title": "Create ‘cast_iron’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eCreate ‘cast_iron’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 18:39 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cast_iron\"\u003ecast_iron\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cast_iron.myco b/cast_iron.myco\nnew file mode 100644\nindex 0000000..e883623\n--- /dev/null\n+++ b/cast_iron.myco\n@@ -0,0 +1,29 @@\n+A piece of properly-[[./#maintain]]ed cast iron cookware will last generations.\r\n+\r\n+= Seasoning\r\n+\r\n+Cast iron seasoning is a layer of oil baked onto cast iron and carbonised through polymerisation. That carbonised oil is what gives your cast iron that black patina. Seasoning forms a natural, easy-release cooking surface and helps prevent your cookware from rusting.\r\n+\r\n+= Maintain\r\n+\r\n+Cast iron maintenance consists of keeping it [[./#clean]] and seasoned. The easiest way to keep it seasoned is simply to cook with it; every time you cook with oil, you\u0026#39;re potentially adding another layer of that carbonised oil.\r\n+\r\n+The second way is to [[./#season]] it directly, and this should really only be necessary when you\u0026#39;ve done something to //remove// existing seasoning. That can happen when you cook acidic foods, use excessive heat, scrub with abrasive utensils or scouring pads, or [[./#clean]] it with soap rather than just warm water and a scraper.\r\n+\r\n+= Clean\r\n+\r\n+After cooking, serving, and eating, rinse the cookware with warm water and scrape any food off. If there\u0026#39;s stuck-on food that absolutely won\u0026#39;t come off, try using soap and water. Any time you use soap to clean cast iron, ++immediately++ [[./#season]] it again. You should usually //not// have to use soap.\r\n+\r\n+= Season\r\n+\r\n+* Drip one or two drops of [[./#seasoning oil]] inside the cookware and spread it around, both inside and outside, with a paper towel\r\n+** When finished spreading, the cookware should have a slight sheen, but not look wet. If it looks wet, you used too much oil.\r\n+* Pre-heat the oven to 500° F (260° C)\r\n+* Once preheated, place cookware upside-down on middle shelf\r\n+* Place baking sheet on bottom\r\n+* Bake for one hour\r\n+* Open door and let cool for at least one hour\r\n+* Wipe cookware down with paper towel\r\n+** The paper towel may or may not come away slightly or really black. This is normal; coming away mostly clean (aside from the oil) means it\u0026#39;s has been well-used and cared-for. If it comes away mostly black, it just means it\u0026#39;s probably a fairly new piece of cookware.\r\n+\r\n+= Oil\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T18:39:39Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T18:39:39Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "e6a3f8a",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/growing/mushrooms",
      "title": "Rename ‘growing/mushrooms’ to ‘growing_mushrooms’ recursively by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eRename ‘growing/mushrooms’ to ‘growing_mushrooms’ recursively\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 17:28 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing/mushrooms\"\u003egrowing/mushrooms\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing/mushrooms/forest_floor\"\u003egrowing/mushrooms/forest_floor\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing/mushrooms/growing_in_cup\"\u003egrowing/mushrooms/growing_in_cup\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing/mushrooms/inoculation\"\u003egrowing/mushrooms/inoculation\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing/mushrooms/plate\"\u003egrowing/mushrooms/plate\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing/mushrooms/substrate\"\u003egrowing/mushrooms/substrate\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing_mushrooms\"\u003egrowing_mushrooms\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing_mushrooms/forest_floor\"\u003egrowing_mushrooms/forest_floor\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing_mushrooms/growing_in_cup\"\u003egrowing_mushrooms/growing_in_cup\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing_mushrooms/inoculation\"\u003egrowing_mushrooms/inoculation\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing_mushrooms/plate\"\u003egrowing_mushrooms/plate\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/growing_mushrooms/substrate\"\u003egrowing_mushrooms/substrate\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/growing/mushrooms.myco b/growing/mushrooms.myco\nindex 0c2d4b1..f0d2726 100644\n--- a/growing/mushrooms.myco\n+++ b/growing/mushrooms.myco\n@@ -1,248 +1,2 @@\n-This page is for educational purposes only and is not a recommendation to break your local laws in any capacity. The text here is copied from [[https://www.leafly.com/learn/psychedelics/how-to-grow-psychedelic-mushrooms-first-time | a Leafly article]] and lightly edited in some places for clarity.\r\n-\r\n-img {\r\n-   Growing/Mushrooms/Forest Floor\r\n-}\r\n-\r\n-== Table of Contents\r\n-* [[./#Note_on_sterilisation | Note on sterilisation]]\r\n-* [[./#How_long_does_it_take? | How long does it take?]]\r\n-* [[./#Supplies | Supplies]]\r\n-* [[./#Preparation | Preparation]]\r\n-* [[./#Inoculation | Inoculation]]\r\n-* [[./#Colonisation | Colonisation]]\r\n-* [[./#Substrate_assembly | Substrate assembly]]\r\n-* [[./#Birthing | Birthing]]\r\n-* [[./#Fruiting | Fruiting]]\r\n-* [[./#Harvesting | Harvesting]]\r\n-\r\n-----\r\n-\r\n-The core steps to a successful harvest include\r\n-\r\n-* **Sterilisation**: A food source (rice, grain, manure, sawdust, popcorn kernels, bird seed, etc.) is first hydrated, loaded into Mason jars or [[https://unicornbags.com/ | Unicorn Bags]], and sterilized. Think of this as clearing a field before planting an orchard. Once competing organisms are gone, mushrooms can take hold easily.\r\n-* **Inoculation**: The sterilized mushroom food is inoculated with spores or a living mushroom sample. These clones produce uniform mushrooms, or fruit, and multi-spore cultures can create countless variations.\r\n-* **Germination \u0026amp; colonisation**: The inoculation is given time to mature and colonise the food source, becoming a white and fluffy mycelial network—like roots, but for mushrooms—and eventually, mushrooms.\r\n-* **Fruit block assembly**: After colonisation, a grower breaks up the inoculated food and mixes it into a substrate, or growing medium—commonly coir, vermiculite, or sphagnum. The substrate provides the structure and water that mushrooms need to mature. Once thoroughly combined, the mixture is sealed inside a plastic bin.\r\n-* **Fruit block colonisation**: Inside a sealed bin, mycelium spread into the substrate. The goal is to establish a fruit block, in which the mycelium joins the food and substrate.\r\n-* **Pinning**: Once the block is fully colonised, primordia—aka “pins”—begin to form, indicating that it\u0026#39;s time to introduce fruiting conditions. These pins will eventually swell and rise from the fruit block as mushrooms.\r\n-* **Fruiting**: During fruiting, young mushrooms want high humidity levels and plenty of oxygen, circumstances referred to as “fruiting conditions.” As mushrooms grow, they consume oxygen and release carbon dioxide. Without the exchange of fresh air for CO2, mushrooms become susceptible to growth defects, dudding, and pathogens. If humidity levels drop too low, a substrate will eventually dry out and starve mushrooms of water.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Note on sterilisation\r\n-\r\n-One of the biggest difficulties for new growers is contamination. Microorganisms like bacteria, yeast, and fungi can out-compete an inoculant and ruin a growing project.\r\n-\r\n-Signs of contamination include:\r\n-\r\n-* Sour or weird odours\r\n-* Presence of a yellow liquid used as a defence mechanism\r\n-* Brown, sludgy deposits of rotting rice\r\n-* Stalled colonisation or the formation of colour masses, most often green, red, pink, or competing shades of white\r\n-\r\n-Contamination usually occurs from inadequate sterilisation techniques, dirty inoculants/spore solutions, unsanitary cultivation environments, or even a grower\u0026#39;s body or clothing. Each time a project is handled or exposed to open air, a mushroom grower risks contamination.\r\n-\r\n-In a home-grown environment that lacks laboratory-standard sterilisation and clean-room equipment, our best defence against contamination is to interact with a project as little as possible.\r\n-\r\n-== How long does it take?\r\n-\r\n-The prep and inoculation phases can be knocked out in an afternoon. After\r\n-inoculation, colonisation can take anywhere from two to eight weeks, depending\r\n-on environmental conditions, genetics, and inoculation technique. Once the cups\r\n-are colonised and birthed, pins and fruits will form in about one to four\r\n-weeks.\r\n-\r\n-A full growth cycle of mushrooms can take anywhere from one to three months.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Supplies\r\n-\r\n-You\u0026#39;ll need the following supplies for the **inoculation phase**:\r\n-\r\n-* Spore syringe or liquid culture\r\n-* Minute Rice Brown Rice Cups\r\n-* Micropore tape\r\n-* x2+ 6-quart plastic totes, or similar plastic boxes\r\n-* Nitrile gloves\r\n-* Rubbing alcohol\r\n-* Bleach\r\n-* Spray bottles for alcohol and bleach\r\n-* Fine-mist bottle for water\r\n-* Lysol or other air disinfectant\r\n-* N95 mask\r\n-* Butane/propane torch, alcohol lamp, or similar\r\n-\r\n-Supply list for the **substrate phase**:\r\n-\r\n-* Coir\r\n-* Vermiculite (optional)\r\n-* Gypsum (optional)\r\n-* Distilled water\r\n-* 5-gallon painter\u0026#39;s bucket and lid\r\n-* Nitrile gloves\r\n-* N95 mask\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Preparation\r\n-\r\n-This and the next step can be finished in an afternoon.\r\n-\r\n-When picking a work area, avoid drafty rooms if at all possible. We want to get as close as we can to a sterile, laboratory-grade clean room. If there are vents, we\u0026#39;re going to seal them up. Also avoid carpeted rooms because carpet traps contaminants.\r\n-\r\n-After selecting a work area, sanitise it as deeply as possible. Ensure there\u0026#39;s ample ventilation, then begin wiping every surface (walls, floors, doors) down with rubbing alcohol. Work top to bottom, and consider using bleach on surfaces that it wouldn\u0026#39;t damage.\r\n-\r\n-After sterilising every surface, gather the spore syringe, rice cups, torch, micropore tape, and nitrile gloves. Wipe everything down with rubbing alcohol and place on a sterile surface.\r\n-\r\n-Begin sealing the room. Turn off any air conditioning systems, close or seal vents with plastic sheeting and tape, etc.\r\n-\r\n-Spray the air with Lysol or a similar aerosol disinfectant designed to mitigate airborne contaminants.\r\n-\r\n-Now clean your body. Take a shower, brush your teeth, and put on clean clothes. Right before heading back into your work area, wash your hands thoroughly with soap.\r\n-\r\n-When ready to proceed, put on an N95 mask and enter the room.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Inoculation\r\n-\r\n-Vigorously shake your spore syringe for a few minutes, making sure to break up any clumps of spores. Spores need to be evenly distributed through the solution.\r\n-\r\n-Flame-sterilize the syringe needle with your torch or lighter. The needle should get red-hot.\r\n-\r\n-**Note:** don\u0026#39;t break the factory seal on the rice cup; that stays sealed until later.\r\n-\r\n-img side {\r\n-    ./Inoculation\r\n-}\r\n-\r\n-When the needle has cooled, puncture the plastic covering on a rice cup in the middle and dispense between 0.5-1cc of spore solution. Don\u0026#39;t use too much solution, as excessive moisture levels will encourage wet rot and bacterial infection.\r\n-\r\n-Immediately cover the inoculation hole with a piece of micropore tape. Make 6 holes on one side, cover them with tape, 6 holes on the other side, then cover them with tape. The goal here is working as quickly and efficiently as possible to minimise the amount of time the contents of the cup are exposed to the air.\r\n-\r\n-The spores now have a source of food and will germinate.\r\n-\r\n-Repeat this process for each cup, sterilising the needle between inoculations.\r\n-\r\n-To minimise the risk of contamination, try to avoid moving your hands around a lot and keep your work surface wet with rubbing alcohol throughout the process.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Colonisation\r\n-\r\n-After inoculation, store the rice cups inside a 6-quart plastic box or similar plastic container and close the lid. Spores will begin to germinate, pair up, and exchange genetic information, maturing into a mycelial network.\r\n-\r\n-To encourage a timely rate of colonisation, store the cups at around 65° F (~18.5° C). Warmer temperatures will encourage quicker colonisation, but anything past 70-75° F (21-23.5° C) can awaken dormant contaminants. Keeping the environment cool will elongate colonisation, but stave off competing microorganisms.\r\n-\r\n-Once a week, gently agitate your rice cups in a back-and-forth or swirling motion, but don\u0026#39;t shake the cup up and down. Doing so can expose grains of rice to the inoculation area, where contaminants are most likely to be hiding.\r\n-\r\n-You can monitor the colonisation process by holding a cup up to a lamp; the dense mycelium restricts light from passing through, thereby appearing whiter than the uncolonised top portion of the rice.\r\n-\r\n-Colonisation usually takes two to eight weeks. When the rice is fully colonised, it will solidify into a unified mass, eventually feeling heavy at the bottom of the cup. Colonisation can be confirmed by shaking the cup. Once few or no loose grains are felt rattling around, move on to the substrate assembly and birthing phases of mushroom growing.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Substrate assembly\r\n-\r\n-When a rice cup is fully colonised, between a couple of weeks and a couple of months, you can move on to making a substrate (the growth medium) and birthing mushrooms.\r\n-\r\n-img side {\r\n-    ./Substrate\r\n-}\r\n-\r\n-Most people use a combo of coir, vermiculite, and gypsum (this combo is also called CVG). “Field capacity” refers to the ideal amount of water in a substrate. A substrate that\u0026#39;s adequately hydrated to field capacity will establish Goldilocks-zone, aerobic soil conditions, and encourage healthy mushrooms. Field capacity is when just a few drops of water are produced when squeezing a handful of substrate. There\u0026#39;s a good explainer video [[https://youtu.be/wzMRjEDMdfs | on YouTube]]; the instructions are reproduced here in case the video is ever taken down.\r\n-\r\n-Make your substrate 8–24 hours ahead of time and use it within 24 hours; the longer the substrate sits around, the more likely it is to become contaminated.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-=== Ingredients\r\n-\r\n-* 1 bucket, 6 gallons\r\n-* 1 brick of coir, 650g\r\n-* 8 cups vermiculite\r\n-* 1 cup gypsum\r\n-* 18 cups water\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-=== Steps\r\n-\r\n-* Put dry ingredients in bucket\r\n-* Boil water\r\n-* Pout water in bucket\r\n-* Close lid, clamping down\r\n-* Let sit at //least// 6-8 hrs to cool\r\n-* Come back and mix everything up\r\n-* Use within 24 hrs\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Birthing\r\n-\r\n-Birthing only takes an hour or so, depending on how many rice cups you have. Before birthing, sterilise your work area again. Remember, your work area is like a surgical theatre and you’re the doctor. Cleanliness and hygiene are a home mycologist’s best allies.\r\n-\r\n-When you’re all cleaned up and wearing a mask and gloves, it’s time to birth your cups.\r\n-\r\n-First, sanitise a spoon with rubbing alcohol, then open a rice cup by breaking the seal and break up the consolidated rice. Add a small handful of substrate to the cup and mix it in with the inoculated rice.\r\n-\r\n-Once the rice is evenly distributed throughout the substrate, gently compress the mix and add another layer of substrate. This layer will serve as a barrier between open-air contaminants and the rice mixture.\r\n-\r\n-Now cups can be introduced to fruiting conditions.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Fruiting\r\n-\r\n-Mushrooms need a humid environment and fresh air. To create such an environment, we use a well-sanitised 6-quart plastic box. After disinfecting the plastic box with rubbing alcohol, spray the inside with a fine-mist water bottle to increase humidity.\r\n-\r\n-Put the cups inside the plastic box with the lid turned upside down—this leaves a small gap for air exchange, allowing fresh oxygen to displace the CO2 that mushrooms make while growing.\r\n-\r\n-The easiest option for lighting is the diffused light from a window through the blinds. You can also use fluorescent lights and LEDs that mimic the spectrum of the sun. If you grow weed and have a T5 or T8 fluorescent tube hanging around, use that. The light simply needs to warm the box.\r\n-\r\n-Keep the temperature the same as it was during the colonisation phase. Temperature regulation is critical because fluctuations create condensation and humidity.\r\n-\r\n-You won’t need to water the cups directly, only mist the inside of the box before adding them. This jumpstarts the formation of fruits via evaporation and rehydration of the substrate during day and night cycles.\r\n-\r\n-Once you introduce your cups to fruiting conditions, high humidity, ample fresh air, and a day-night light cycle, simply leave your project alone. Resist touching it. No daily misting, fanning, etc. is needed. Patience is key.\r\n-\r\n-If the condensation on the inside of the bin evaporates entirely before fruits form, remove the cups and mist the walls and/or floor of the box again. Never mist the cups, fruits, or pins directly. Too much water will drown the mycelium and encourage pathogens to take root.\r\n-\r\n-The plastic bin will first start to dry out where fresh air enters. If a dry zone doesn’t form after a few days, reposition the upturned lid to widen the gap to increase fresh air exchange.\r\n-\r\n-Note: Some people close the lid and fan their fruiting chamber with the lid every so often. We don’t recommend this approach as it can mess with humidity levels. We suggest a passive fresh air exchange. As a rule of thumb, less interaction is more.\r\n-\r\n-The fruiting phase can be broken down into three stages: pinning, elongation, and sporulation.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-=== Pinning\r\n-\r\n-Mushrooms start as knots of //hypha//-like individual roots, but part of the mycelium: on the surface of a mycelial network. They grow where water droplets condense and evaporate.\r\n-\r\n-Imperceptible to the untrained eye, these knots are the beginnings of //primordia//: better known as “pins” due to their pinhead-like appearance. Their formation is usually referred to as “pinning.”\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-=== Elongation\r\n-\r\n-As fruits mature, they will elongate and gain mass. This is when adequate fresh air exchange becomes critical. If fruit bodies bruise to blue, this indicates a CO,,2,, build-up and growth will soon halt if the rate of fresh air exchange isn’t increased.\r\n-\r\n-Fruits are ready to harvest when the caps open up, signalling that sporulation will soon begin.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-=== Sporulation\r\n-\r\n-img side {\r\n-   ./Growing In Cup\r\n-}\r\n-\r\n-At this point, the veil connecting the cap to the stem breaks and within a few days, spores will be visible on the substrate below. This is the mushroom’s way of repeating the lifecycle.\r\n-\r\n-It’s common to harvest shortly before or after the veil breaks to avoid dark, inky spore deposits falling onto and colouring any underlying mushrooms.\r\n-\r\n-== Harvest\r\n-\r\n-When the veil connecting a mushroom’s cap to its stem breaks, it’s ready to harvest. To harvest, simply twist and pull each mushroom from the substrate. Alternatively, you can use a knife or scalpel to cut them free.\r\n-\r\n-Once harvested, remove and discard any substrate that’s attached to the bottom of your mushrooms.\r\n-\r\n-img side {\r\n-    ./Plate\r\n-}\r\n-\r\n-They should be eaten immediately after harvest or dried.\r\n-\r\n-Air drying is sufficient, but they can also be put in a food dehydrator on a low-temp setting (120° F or less) for about a day. Mushrooms are composed of up to 90% water, so growers need to be thorough when drying them.\r\n-\r\n-Once cracker-dry, mushrooms should be stored in a jar or similar container with a desiccant pack or two to maintain proper humidity levels. Ideally, store mushrooms in a dark space that stays at room temperature, not in a freezer or fridge.\n\\ No newline at end of file\n+=\u0026gt; growing_mushrooms | ✏️ Growing Mushrooms\n+\u0026lt;= growing_mushrooms | full\n\ndiff --git a/growing/mushrooms/forest_floor.myco b/growing/mushrooms/forest_floor.myco\nindex 1e96238..09dbda0 100644\n--- a/growing/mushrooms/forest_floor.myco\n+++ b/growing/mushrooms/forest_floor.myco\n@@ -1 +1,2 @@\n-AI-generated image of mushrooms growing in a bed of moss on a forest floor\n\\ No newline at end of file\n+=\u0026gt; growing_mushrooms/forest_floor | ✏️ Growing Mushrooms/Forest Floor\n+\u0026lt;= growing_mushrooms/forest_floor | full\n\ndiff --git a/growing/mushrooms/growing_in_cup.myco b/growing/mushrooms/growing_in_cup.myco\nindex 93b4836..b0b27da 100644\n--- a/growing/mushrooms/growing_in_cup.myco\n+++ b/growing/mushrooms/growing_in_cup.myco\n@@ -1 +1,2 @@\n-AI-generated image of mushrooms with small caps growing out of dirt inside a squat white plastic cup\n\\ No newline at end of file\n+=\u0026gt; growing_mushrooms/growing_in_cup | ✏️ Growing Mushrooms/Growing In Cup\n+\u0026lt;= growing_mushrooms/growing_in_cup | full\n\ndiff --git a/growing/mushrooms/inoculation.myco b/growing/mushrooms/inoculation.myco\nindex 71dba83..f7ea3a6 100644\n--- a/growing/mushrooms/inoculation.myco\n+++ b/growing/mushrooms/inoculation.myco\n@@ -1 +1,2 @@\n-AI-generated image of a syringe puncturing the plastic seal in a white cup\n\\ No newline at end of file\n+=\u0026gt; growing_mushrooms/inoculation | ✏️ Growing Mushrooms/Inoculation\n+\u0026lt;= growing_mushrooms/inoculation | full\n\ndiff --git a/growing/mushrooms/plate.myco b/growing/mushrooms/plate.myco\nindex 021a514..5da1ea6 100644\n--- a/growing/mushrooms/plate.myco\n+++ b/growing/mushrooms/plate.myco\n@@ -1 +1,2 @@\n-AI-generated image of mushrooms on a plate\n\\ No newline at end of file\n+=\u0026gt; growing_mushrooms/plate | ✏️ Growing Mushrooms/Plate\n+\u0026lt;= growing_mushrooms/plate | full\n\ndiff --git a/growing/mushrooms/substrate.myco b/growing/mushrooms/substrate.myco\nindex 6fca772..0e11036 100644\n--- a/growing/mushrooms/substrate.myco\n+++ b/growing/mushrooms/substrate.myco\n@@ -1 +1,2 @@\n-AI-generated image of coir mixed with dirt\n\\ No newline at end of file\n+=\u0026gt; growing_mushrooms/substrate | ✏️ Growing Mushrooms/Substrate\n+\u0026lt;= growing_mushrooms/substrate | full\n\ndiff --git a/growing_mushrooms.myco b/growing_mushrooms.myco\nnew file mode 100644\nindex 0000000..0c2d4b1\n--- /dev/null\n+++ b/growing_mushrooms.myco\n@@ -0,0 +1,248 @@\n+This page is for educational purposes only and is not a recommendation to break your local laws in any capacity. The text here is copied from [[https://www.leafly.com/learn/psychedelics/how-to-grow-psychedelic-mushrooms-first-time | a Leafly article]] and lightly edited in some places for clarity.\r\n+\r\n+img {\r\n+   Growing/Mushrooms/Forest Floor\r\n+}\r\n+\r\n+== Table of Contents\r\n+* [[./#Note_on_sterilisation | Note on sterilisation]]\r\n+* [[./#How_long_does_it_take? | How long does it take?]]\r\n+* [[./#Supplies | Supplies]]\r\n+* [[./#Preparation | Preparation]]\r\n+* [[./#Inoculation | Inoculation]]\r\n+* [[./#Colonisation | Colonisation]]\r\n+* [[./#Substrate_assembly | Substrate assembly]]\r\n+* [[./#Birthing | Birthing]]\r\n+* [[./#Fruiting | Fruiting]]\r\n+* [[./#Harvesting | Harvesting]]\r\n+\r\n+----\r\n+\r\n+The core steps to a successful harvest include\r\n+\r\n+* **Sterilisation**: A food source (rice, grain, manure, sawdust, popcorn kernels, bird seed, etc.) is first hydrated, loaded into Mason jars or [[https://unicornbags.com/ | Unicorn Bags]], and sterilized. Think of this as clearing a field before planting an orchard. Once competing organisms are gone, mushrooms can take hold easily.\r\n+* **Inoculation**: The sterilized mushroom food is inoculated with spores or a living mushroom sample. These clones produce uniform mushrooms, or fruit, and multi-spore cultures can create countless variations.\r\n+* **Germination \u0026amp; colonisation**: The inoculation is given time to mature and colonise the food source, becoming a white and fluffy mycelial network—like roots, but for mushrooms—and eventually, mushrooms.\r\n+* **Fruit block assembly**: After colonisation, a grower breaks up the inoculated food and mixes it into a substrate, or growing medium—commonly coir, vermiculite, or sphagnum. The substrate provides the structure and water that mushrooms need to mature. Once thoroughly combined, the mixture is sealed inside a plastic bin.\r\n+* **Fruit block colonisation**: Inside a sealed bin, mycelium spread into the substrate. The goal is to establish a fruit block, in which the mycelium joins the food and substrate.\r\n+* **Pinning**: Once the block is fully colonised, primordia—aka “pins”—begin to form, indicating that it\u0026#39;s time to introduce fruiting conditions. These pins will eventually swell and rise from the fruit block as mushrooms.\r\n+* **Fruiting**: During fruiting, young mushrooms want high humidity levels and plenty of oxygen, circumstances referred to as “fruiting conditions.” As mushrooms grow, they consume oxygen and release carbon dioxide. Without the exchange of fresh air for CO2, mushrooms become susceptible to growth defects, dudding, and pathogens. If humidity levels drop too low, a substrate will eventually dry out and starve mushrooms of water.\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+== Note on sterilisation\r\n+\r\n+One of the biggest difficulties for new growers is contamination. Microorganisms like bacteria, yeast, and fungi can out-compete an inoculant and ruin a growing project.\r\n+\r\n+Signs of contamination include:\r\n+\r\n+* Sour or weird odours\r\n+* Presence of a yellow liquid used as a defence mechanism\r\n+* Brown, sludgy deposits of rotting rice\r\n+* Stalled colonisation or the formation of colour masses, most often green, red, pink, or competing shades of white\r\n+\r\n+Contamination usually occurs from inadequate sterilisation techniques, dirty inoculants/spore solutions, unsanitary cultivation environments, or even a grower\u0026#39;s body or clothing. Each time a project is handled or exposed to open air, a mushroom grower risks contamination.\r\n+\r\n+In a home-grown environment that lacks laboratory-standard sterilisation and clean-room equipment, our best defence against contamination is to interact with a project as little as possible.\r\n+\r\n+== How long does it take?\r\n+\r\n+The prep and inoculation phases can be knocked out in an afternoon. After\r\n+inoculation, colonisation can take anywhere from two to eight weeks, depending\r\n+on environmental conditions, genetics, and inoculation technique. Once the cups\r\n+are colonised and birthed, pins and fruits will form in about one to four\r\n+weeks.\r\n+\r\n+A full growth cycle of mushrooms can take anywhere from one to three months.\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+== Supplies\r\n+\r\n+You\u0026#39;ll need the following supplies for the **inoculation phase**:\r\n+\r\n+* Spore syringe or liquid culture\r\n+* Minute Rice Brown Rice Cups\r\n+* Micropore tape\r\n+* x2+ 6-quart plastic totes, or similar plastic boxes\r\n+* Nitrile gloves\r\n+* Rubbing alcohol\r\n+* Bleach\r\n+* Spray bottles for alcohol and bleach\r\n+* Fine-mist bottle for water\r\n+* Lysol or other air disinfectant\r\n+* N95 mask\r\n+* Butane/propane torch, alcohol lamp, or similar\r\n+\r\n+Supply list for the **substrate phase**:\r\n+\r\n+* Coir\r\n+* Vermiculite (optional)\r\n+* Gypsum (optional)\r\n+* Distilled water\r\n+* 5-gallon painter\u0026#39;s bucket and lid\r\n+* Nitrile gloves\r\n+* N95 mask\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+== Preparation\r\n+\r\n+This and the next step can be finished in an afternoon.\r\n+\r\n+When picking a work area, avoid drafty rooms if at all possible. We want to get as close as we can to a sterile, laboratory-grade clean room. If there are vents, we\u0026#39;re going to seal them up. Also avoid carpeted rooms because carpet traps contaminants.\r\n+\r\n+After selecting a work area, sanitise it as deeply as possible. Ensure there\u0026#39;s ample ventilation, then begin wiping every surface (walls, floors, doors) down with rubbing alcohol. Work top to bottom, and consider using bleach on surfaces that it wouldn\u0026#39;t damage.\r\n+\r\n+After sterilising every surface, gather the spore syringe, rice cups, torch, micropore tape, and nitrile gloves. Wipe everything down with rubbing alcohol and place on a sterile surface.\r\n+\r\n+Begin sealing the room. Turn off any air conditioning systems, close or seal vents with plastic sheeting and tape, etc.\r\n+\r\n+Spray the air with Lysol or a similar aerosol disinfectant designed to mitigate airborne contaminants.\r\n+\r\n+Now clean your body. Take a shower, brush your teeth, and put on clean clothes. Right before heading back into your work area, wash your hands thoroughly with soap.\r\n+\r\n+When ready to proceed, put on an N95 mask and enter the room.\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+== Inoculation\r\n+\r\n+Vigorously shake your spore syringe for a few minutes, making sure to break up any clumps of spores. Spores need to be evenly distributed through the solution.\r\n+\r\n+Flame-sterilize the syringe needle with your torch or lighter. The needle should get red-hot.\r\n+\r\n+**Note:** don\u0026#39;t break the factory seal on the rice cup; that stays sealed until later.\r\n+\r\n+img side {\r\n+    ./Inoculation\r\n+}\r\n+\r\n+When the needle has cooled, puncture the plastic covering on a rice cup in the middle and dispense between 0.5-1cc of spore solution. Don\u0026#39;t use too much solution, as excessive moisture levels will encourage wet rot and bacterial infection.\r\n+\r\n+Immediately cover the inoculation hole with a piece of micropore tape. Make 6 holes on one side, cover them with tape, 6 holes on the other side, then cover them with tape. The goal here is working as quickly and efficiently as possible to minimise the amount of time the contents of the cup are exposed to the air.\r\n+\r\n+The spores now have a source of food and will germinate.\r\n+\r\n+Repeat this process for each cup, sterilising the needle between inoculations.\r\n+\r\n+To minimise the risk of contamination, try to avoid moving your hands around a lot and keep your work surface wet with rubbing alcohol throughout the process.\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+== Colonisation\r\n+\r\n+After inoculation, store the rice cups inside a 6-quart plastic box or similar plastic container and close the lid. Spores will begin to germinate, pair up, and exchange genetic information, maturing into a mycelial network.\r\n+\r\n+To encourage a timely rate of colonisation, store the cups at around 65° F (~18.5° C). Warmer temperatures will encourage quicker colonisation, but anything past 70-75° F (21-23.5° C) can awaken dormant contaminants. Keeping the environment cool will elongate colonisation, but stave off competing microorganisms.\r\n+\r\n+Once a week, gently agitate your rice cups in a back-and-forth or swirling motion, but don\u0026#39;t shake the cup up and down. Doing so can expose grains of rice to the inoculation area, where contaminants are most likely to be hiding.\r\n+\r\n+You can monitor the colonisation process by holding a cup up to a lamp; the dense mycelium restricts light from passing through, thereby appearing whiter than the uncolonised top portion of the rice.\r\n+\r\n+Colonisation usually takes two to eight weeks. When the rice is fully colonised, it will solidify into a unified mass, eventually feeling heavy at the bottom of the cup. Colonisation can be confirmed by shaking the cup. Once few or no loose grains are felt rattling around, move on to the substrate assembly and birthing phases of mushroom growing.\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+== Substrate assembly\r\n+\r\n+When a rice cup is fully colonised, between a couple of weeks and a couple of months, you can move on to making a substrate (the growth medium) and birthing mushrooms.\r\n+\r\n+img side {\r\n+    ./Substrate\r\n+}\r\n+\r\n+Most people use a combo of coir, vermiculite, and gypsum (this combo is also called CVG). “Field capacity” refers to the ideal amount of water in a substrate. A substrate that\u0026#39;s adequately hydrated to field capacity will establish Goldilocks-zone, aerobic soil conditions, and encourage healthy mushrooms. Field capacity is when just a few drops of water are produced when squeezing a handful of substrate. There\u0026#39;s a good explainer video [[https://youtu.be/wzMRjEDMdfs | on YouTube]]; the instructions are reproduced here in case the video is ever taken down.\r\n+\r\n+Make your substrate 8–24 hours ahead of time and use it within 24 hours; the longer the substrate sits around, the more likely it is to become contaminated.\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+=== Ingredients\r\n+\r\n+* 1 bucket, 6 gallons\r\n+* 1 brick of coir, 650g\r\n+* 8 cups vermiculite\r\n+* 1 cup gypsum\r\n+* 18 cups water\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+=== Steps\r\n+\r\n+* Put dry ingredients in bucket\r\n+* Boil water\r\n+* Pout water in bucket\r\n+* Close lid, clamping down\r\n+* Let sit at //least// 6-8 hrs to cool\r\n+* Come back and mix everything up\r\n+* Use within 24 hrs\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+== Birthing\r\n+\r\n+Birthing only takes an hour or so, depending on how many rice cups you have. Before birthing, sterilise your work area again. Remember, your work area is like a surgical theatre and you’re the doctor. Cleanliness and hygiene are a home mycologist’s best allies.\r\n+\r\n+When you’re all cleaned up and wearing a mask and gloves, it’s time to birth your cups.\r\n+\r\n+First, sanitise a spoon with rubbing alcohol, then open a rice cup by breaking the seal and break up the consolidated rice. Add a small handful of substrate to the cup and mix it in with the inoculated rice.\r\n+\r\n+Once the rice is evenly distributed throughout the substrate, gently compress the mix and add another layer of substrate. This layer will serve as a barrier between open-air contaminants and the rice mixture.\r\n+\r\n+Now cups can be introduced to fruiting conditions.\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+== Fruiting\r\n+\r\n+Mushrooms need a humid environment and fresh air. To create such an environment, we use a well-sanitised 6-quart plastic box. After disinfecting the plastic box with rubbing alcohol, spray the inside with a fine-mist water bottle to increase humidity.\r\n+\r\n+Put the cups inside the plastic box with the lid turned upside down—this leaves a small gap for air exchange, allowing fresh oxygen to displace the CO2 that mushrooms make while growing.\r\n+\r\n+The easiest option for lighting is the diffused light from a window through the blinds. You can also use fluorescent lights and LEDs that mimic the spectrum of the sun. If you grow weed and have a T5 or T8 fluorescent tube hanging around, use that. The light simply needs to warm the box.\r\n+\r\n+Keep the temperature the same as it was during the colonisation phase. Temperature regulation is critical because fluctuations create condensation and humidity.\r\n+\r\n+You won’t need to water the cups directly, only mist the inside of the box before adding them. This jumpstarts the formation of fruits via evaporation and rehydration of the substrate during day and night cycles.\r\n+\r\n+Once you introduce your cups to fruiting conditions, high humidity, ample fresh air, and a day-night light cycle, simply leave your project alone. Resist touching it. No daily misting, fanning, etc. is needed. Patience is key.\r\n+\r\n+If the condensation on the inside of the bin evaporates entirely before fruits form, remove the cups and mist the walls and/or floor of the box again. Never mist the cups, fruits, or pins directly. Too much water will drown the mycelium and encourage pathogens to take root.\r\n+\r\n+The plastic bin will first start to dry out where fresh air enters. If a dry zone doesn’t form after a few days, reposition the upturned lid to widen the gap to increase fresh air exchange.\r\n+\r\n+Note: Some people close the lid and fan their fruiting chamber with the lid every so often. We don’t recommend this approach as it can mess with humidity levels. We suggest a passive fresh air exchange. As a rule of thumb, less interaction is more.\r\n+\r\n+The fruiting phase can be broken down into three stages: pinning, elongation, and sporulation.\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+=== Pinning\r\n+\r\n+Mushrooms start as knots of //hypha//-like individual roots, but part of the mycelium: on the surface of a mycelial network. They grow where water droplets condense and evaporate.\r\n+\r\n+Imperceptible to the untrained eye, these knots are the beginnings of //primordia//: better known as “pins” due to their pinhead-like appearance. Their formation is usually referred to as “pinning.”\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+=== Elongation\r\n+\r\n+As fruits mature, they will elongate and gain mass. This is when adequate fresh air exchange becomes critical. If fruit bodies bruise to blue, this indicates a CO,,2,, build-up and growth will soon halt if the rate of fresh air exchange isn’t increased.\r\n+\r\n+Fruits are ready to harvest when the caps open up, signalling that sporulation will soon begin.\r\n+\r\n+\r\n+=== Sporulation\r\n+\r\n+img side {\r\n+   ./Growing In Cup\r\n+}\r\n+\r\n+At this point, the veil connecting the cap to the stem breaks and within a few days, spores will be visible on the substrate below. This is the mushroom’s way of repeating the lifecycle.\r\n+\r\n+It’s common to harvest shortly before or after the veil breaks to avoid dark, inky spore deposits falling onto and colouring any underlying mushrooms.\r\n+\r\n+== Harvest\r\n+\r\n+When the veil connecting a mushroom’s cap to its stem breaks, it’s ready to harvest. To harvest, simply twist and pull each mushroom from the substrate. Alternatively, you can use a knife or scalpel to cut them free.\r\n+\r\n+Once harvested, remove and discard any substrate that’s attached to the bottom of your mushrooms.\r\n+\r\n+img side {\r\n+    ./Plate\r\n+}\r\n+\r\n+They should be eaten immediately after harvest or dried.\r\n+\r\n+Air drying is sufficient, but they can also be put in a food dehydrator on a low-temp setting (120° F or less) for about a day. Mushrooms are composed of up to 90% water, so growers need to be thorough when drying them.\r\n+\r\n+Once cracker-dry, mushrooms should be stored in a jar or similar container with a desiccant pack or two to maintain proper humidity levels. Ideally, store mushrooms in a dark space that stays at room temperature, not in a freezer or fridge.\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\ndiff --git a/growing_mushrooms/forest_floor.myco b/growing_mushrooms/forest_floor.myco\nnew file mode 100644\nindex 0000000..1e96238\n--- /dev/null\n+++ b/growing_mushrooms/forest_floor.myco\n@@ -0,0 +1 @@\n+AI-generated image of mushrooms growing in a bed of moss on a forest floor\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\ndiff --git a/growing_mushrooms/growing_in_cup.myco b/growing_mushrooms/growing_in_cup.myco\nnew file mode 100644\nindex 0000000..93b4836\n--- /dev/null\n+++ b/growing_mushrooms/growing_in_cup.myco\n@@ -0,0 +1 @@\n+AI-generated image of mushrooms with small caps growing out of dirt inside a squat white plastic cup\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\ndiff --git a/growing_mushrooms/inoculation.myco b/growing_mushrooms/inoculation.myco\nnew file mode 100644\nindex 0000000..71dba83\n--- /dev/null\n+++ b/growing_mushrooms/inoculation.myco\n@@ -0,0 +1 @@\n+AI-generated image of a syringe puncturing the plastic seal in a white cup\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\ndiff --git a/growing_mushrooms/plate.myco b/growing_mushrooms/plate.myco\nnew file mode 100644\nindex 0000000..021a514\n--- /dev/null\n+++ b/growing_mushrooms/plate.myco\n@@ -0,0 +1 @@\n+AI-generated image of mushrooms on a plate\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\ndiff --git a/growing_mushrooms/substrate.myco b/growing_mushrooms/substrate.myco\nnew file mode 100644\nindex 0000000..6fca772\n--- /dev/null\n+++ b/growing_mushrooms/substrate.myco\n@@ -0,0 +1 @@\n+AI-generated image of coir mixed with dirt\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T17:28:50Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T17:28:50Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "f28a24f",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/mimetypes",
      "title": "Create ‘mimetypes’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eCreate ‘mimetypes’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 17:28 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/mimetypes\"\u003emimetypes\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/mimetypes.myco b/mimetypes.myco\nnew file mode 100644\nindex 0000000..d05aba5\n--- /dev/null\n+++ b/mimetypes.myco\n@@ -0,0 +1,13 @@\n+```\r\n+$ xdg-mime query filetype \u0026lt;path-to-file\u0026gt;\r\n+\u0026lt;mime/type\u0026gt;\r\n+\r\n+$ xdg-mime query default \u0026lt;mime/type\u0026gt;\r\n+\u0026lt;someapp.desktop\u0026gt;\r\n+```\r\n+\r\n+Find your app in `/usr/share/application`\r\n+\r\n+```\r\n+xdg-mime default \u0026lt;someotherapp.desktop\u0026gt; \u0026lt;mime/type\u0026gt;\r\n+```\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T17:28:17Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T17:28:17Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "8f5dc19",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/daily_notes/2023-08-21",
      "title": "Delete ‘daily_notes/2023-08-21’ by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eDelete ‘daily_notes/2023-08-21’\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 17:28 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/daily_notes/2023-08-21\"\u003edaily_notes/2023-08-21\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/daily_notes/2023-08-21.myco b/daily_notes/2023-08-21.myco\ndeleted file mode 100644\nindex 8a4a6cd..0000000\n--- a/daily_notes/2023-08-21.myco\n+++ /dev/null\n@@ -1,52 +0,0 @@\n-= Programming Languages\r\n-== Four programming paradigms\r\n-\r\n-These are actually becoming obsolete. Various languages are beginning to differentiate themselves from each other through their //type systems//.\r\n-\r\n-* Procedural\r\n-** C, BASIC, Pascal\r\n-** Programs are processes/instructions for making things happen\r\n-* Object oriented\r\n-** Organise the software into classes and methods, but when you\u0026#39;re writing the methods, they still have the procedural paradigm under the hood\r\n-** New OOP languages are mostly the same\r\n-* Functional\r\n-** Lisp is one of the earliest functional languages\r\n-** FP is becoming more and more scattered as people make new languages\r\n-** Used to be a niche field, but it\u0026#39;s becoming much more mainstream\r\n-** Haskell is //the best// for “language implementation”: creating new languages, parsing existing languages, etc.\r\n-* Logical\r\n-** Statements express facts and rules based on formal logic. It uses a declarative style using a system of facts and rules rather than procedural instructions. Key aspects include using logic to represent problems, satisfiability-based evaluation rather than execution, and supporting reasoning through querying\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Haskell\r\n-The compiler doesn\u0026#39;t do any under-the-hood magic like Python does. For example, when you want to call `sign()` on an `int`, you can\u0026#39;t. `sign()` accepts a `double` or a `float`, so you must first convert the `int` to a `float` or a `double`.\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-=== Strongly typed language\r\n-\r\n-Allows you to turn **semantic errors** into **syntactic errors**.\r\n-\r\n-* **Syntactic error:** compiler gives an error because your syntax doesn\u0026#39;t match the language\u0026#39;s grammar\r\n-* **Semantic error:** compiler accepts your program, but there\u0026#39;s definitely something that\u0026#39;s going to make it crash (null pointers, reference a variable before it\u0026#39;s initialised)\r\n-* **Logical error:** passes syntactic tests and doesn\u0026#39;t have //obvious// errors, but it doesn\u0026#39;t produce the results you want (off-by-one error)\r\n-\r\n-\r\n-== Assignments for 2023-08-23\r\n-* Install Haskell\r\n-* Go through §1 and §2 of Learn You a Haskell For Great Good\r\n-\r\n-= Mimetypes\r\n-\r\n-```\r\n-$ xdg-mime query filetype \u0026lt;path-to-file\u0026gt;\r\n-\u0026lt;mime/type\u0026gt;\r\n-\r\n-$ xdg-mime query default \u0026lt;mime/type\u0026gt;\r\n-\u0026lt;someapp.desktop\u0026gt;\r\n-```\r\n-\r\n-Find your app in `/usr/share/application`\r\n-\r\n-```\r\n-xdg-mime default \u0026lt;someotherapp.desktop\u0026gt; \u0026lt;mime/type\u0026gt;\r\n-```\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T17:28:02Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T17:28:02Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "2a77d23",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cuban_coffee",
      "title": "Edit ‘cuban_coffee’: typo by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cuban_coffee’: typo\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 17:27 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cuban_coffee\"\u003ecuban_coffee\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cuban_coffee.myco b/cuban_coffee.myco\nindex 7063489..57032d5 100644\n--- a/cuban_coffee.myco\n+++ b/cuban_coffee.myco\n@@ -4,3 +4,3 @@\n \r\n-The process for making Café Cubano (cuban coffee) in a [[Moka Pot]] is largely the same as making [[regular coffee]] in a [[Moka Pot]]. Only the additions are noted below.\r\n+The process for making Café Cubano (Cuban coffee) in a [[Moka Pot]] is largely the same as making [[regular coffee]] in a [[Moka Pot]]. Only the additions are noted below.\r\n \r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T17:27:12Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T17:27:12Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "24f24a1",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/coffee/moka_pot",
      "title": "Rename ‘coffee/moka_pot’ to ‘moka_pot’ recursively by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eRename ‘coffee/moka_pot’ to ‘moka_pot’ recursively\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 17:26 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/coffee/moka_pot\"\u003ecoffee/moka_pot\u003c/a\u003e\u003cspan aria-hidden=\"true\"\u003e, \u003c/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"/hypha/moka_pot\"\u003emoka_pot\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/coffee/moka_pot.myco b/coffee/moka_pot.myco\nindex a2c01b3..93d1ad3 100644\n--- a/coffee/moka_pot.myco\n+++ b/coffee/moka_pot.myco\n@@ -1 +1,2 @@\n-I have the four-cup induction-safe Moka pot, so recipes are tailored for that capacity. Before following any of these recipes, watch James Hoffman\u0026#39;s [[https://youtu.be/BfDLoIvb0w4 | Ultimate Moka Pot Technique]] for how to brew with the Moka Pot. The [[regular coffee]] recipe is an approximation of what he presents in the video, and the [[Cuban coffee]] recipe builds on the regular one.\n\\ No newline at end of file\n+=\u0026gt; moka_pot | ✏️ Moka Pot\n+\u0026lt;= moka_pot | full\n\ndiff --git a/moka_pot.myco b/moka_pot.myco\nnew file mode 100644\nindex 0000000..a2c01b3\n--- /dev/null\n+++ b/moka_pot.myco\n@@ -0,0 +1 @@\n+I have the four-cup induction-safe Moka pot, so recipes are tailored for that capacity. Before following any of these recipes, watch James Hoffman\u0026#39;s [[https://youtu.be/BfDLoIvb0w4 | Ultimate Moka Pot Technique]] for how to brew with the Moka Pot. The [[regular coffee]] recipe is an approximation of what he presents in the video, and the [[Cuban coffee]] recipe builds on the regular one.\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T17:26:56Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T17:26:56Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "9853a53",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/coffee/moka_pot",
      "title": "Edit ‘coffee/moka_pot’: remove specific coffee types by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘coffee/moka_pot’: remove specific coffee types\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 17:26 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/coffee/moka_pot\"\u003ecoffee/moka_pot\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/coffee/moka_pot.myco b/coffee/moka_pot.myco\nindex e282728..a2c01b3 100644\n--- a/coffee/moka_pot.myco\n+++ b/coffee/moka_pot.myco\n@@ -1,29 +1 @@\n-I have the four-cup induction-safe Moka pot, so recipes are tailored for that capacity. Before following any of these recipes, watch James Hoffman\u0026#39;s [[https://youtu.be/BfDLoIvb0w4 | Ultimate Moka Pot Technique]] for how to brew with the Moka Pot. The regular recipe below is an approximation of what he presents in the video, and the Café Cubano recipe builds on the regular recipe.\r\n-\r\n-== Regular coffee (espresso-like)\r\n-=== Prep\r\n-* Set the stove to medium-high so it can pre-heat\r\n-* Boil 150g water in a kettle\r\n-* Grind ~15g coffee (aim to fill the filter to the rim)\r\n-* Pour coffee into filter and level, but ++do not tamp++\r\n-* Add an Aeropress filter to the underside of the top piece of the Moka Pot\r\n-\r\n-=== Brewing\r\n-* Pour pre-heated water into boiler\r\n-* Set filter in boiler\r\n-* Screw top piece of pot onto boiler\r\n-* Place on heated stove and watch carefully\r\n-** Ideally, you want to sort of ride the edge between sputtering and not, erring on the side of not. Once it starts sputtering, the coffee is either too hot or done.\r\n-* When you start to hear sputtering from the pot, immediately take it off the stove and run cold water over the boiler to halt the brew\r\n-* Serve in small espresso cups\r\n-\r\n-== Café Cubano (Cuban Coffee)\r\n-\r\n-++Use dark roast coffee.++ The process for making Café Cubano in a Moka Pot is largely the same as making regular coffee in a Moka Pot. Only the additions are noted below.\r\n-\r\n-=== Prep\r\n-* Measure 1.5 tsp granulated sugar into a small mixing container and set aside\r\n-\r\n-=== Brewing\r\n-* As soon as brewed coffee starts flowing into the top of the pot, take it off the stove, pour 1 tsp into the mixing container with the sugar, set the pot back on the still-hot stove, and vigorously stir the coffee/sugar mixture\r\n-* After halting the brew with cold water, pour the brewed coffee into the mixing container and stir gently before serving\n\\ No newline at end of file\n+I have the four-cup induction-safe Moka pot, so recipes are tailored for that capacity. Before following any of these recipes, watch James Hoffman\u0026#39;s [[https://youtu.be/BfDLoIvb0w4 | Ultimate Moka Pot Technique]] for how to brew with the Moka Pot. The [[regular coffee]] recipe is an approximation of what he presents in the video, and the [[Cuban coffee]] recipe builds on the regular one.\n\\ No newline at end of file\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T17:26:46Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T17:26:46Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    },
    {
      "id": "213be23",
      "url": "https://wiki.secluded.site/hypha/cuban_coffee",
      "title": "Edit ‘cuban_coffee’: link moka pot text to hypha by amolith",
      "summary": "\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEdit ‘cuban_coffee’: link moka pot text to hypha\u003c/b\u003e (by amolith at 17 Jan 24 17:25 UTC)\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHyphae affected: \n\u003ca href=\"/hypha/cuban_coffee\"\u003ecuban_coffee\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cpre\u003e\u003ccode\u003ediff --git a/cuban_coffee.myco b/cuban_coffee.myco\nindex c9247b0..7063489 100644\n--- a/cuban_coffee.myco\n+++ b/cuban_coffee.myco\n@@ -4,3 +4,3 @@\n \r\n-The process for making Café Cubano in a Moka Pot is largely the same as making [[regular coffee]] in a Moka Pot. Only the additions are noted below.\r\n+The process for making Café Cubano (cuban coffee) in a [[Moka Pot]] is largely the same as making [[regular coffee]] in a [[Moka Pot]]. Only the additions are noted below.\r\n \r\n\n\u003c/code\u003e\u003c/pre\u003e\n",
      "date_published": "2024-01-17T17:25:41Z",
      "date_modified": "2024-01-17T17:25:41Z",
      "author": {
        "name": "amolith"
      }
    }
  ]
}